You can find the product you need by using our handy menu at the top and browsing by category, plus using the filters along the side of the collection page.

If there's an exact product you're looking for, you can use the search bar to search by product name or SKU.

When you click on the product page, you'll see a series of tabs beneath the product price and information. Clicking on these tabs will open them, revealing plenty of helpful information like the description, dimensions, material and more.

If you can't find the information you need, please get in touch with us at showroom@periodpropertystore.co.uk for help!

By signing up to our mailing list, you'll automatically receive a code for 15% off all From The Anvil products (excluding finish swatches).

If you have a trade, you're also welcome to apply for a Trade Account which offers further discounts on many of our products.

For more information, please contact showroom@periodpropertystore.co.uk

This depends on the type of product and brand.

For From The Anvil, we have hardware and lighting finish swatches available to purchase.

For Little Greene & Farrow & Ball, we can offer samples for most paint colours & wallpapers (though not all).

For Ca'Pietra tiles we can offer both free and paid tile samples, depending on size.

For any other brands, please get in contact with us at showroom@periodpropertystore.co.uk for more information about samples.

This depends on when your order was placed. If our team haven't already started packing your order, we are able to accommodate cancellations.

However, if your order has already been packed/shipped, it can't be cancelled. In this scenario, we recommend waiting for your order to arrive and then requesting a return.

Please note that bespoke products (such as radiators, painted doors & bespoke lighting) are not eligible for returns or cancellation.

You can learn all about which brands we offer by visiting our Brands page.

There are two types of products that you can order from Period Property Store, which will affect delivery:

   1. 'Standard' products are products that do not fall into our 'Big & Bulky' category.
   2. 'Big & Bulky' products require palletised or specialist courier delivery.

Our 'Standard Parcel Delivery' & 'Next Day Parcel Delivery' options are not available for products marked 'Big & Bulky'

All orders are subject to product availability. We aim to process all orders within five working days.

Depending on your delivery postcode and which products you order, delivery charges may apply.

All delivery times and dates are estimates. We will try our best to meet the delivery estimates we have given you but shall not be responsible for any failure to deliver ordered products within these stated time frames. We will let you know if we cannot deliver your products within 30 days of when we receive payment from you, and give you the opportunity to either wait for the products or cancel your order. If you choose to cancel your order we will give you a full refund.

We strongly recommend that you do not book fitters or tradesmen until your order has actually been delivered and checked by you. We cannot be held responsible for any third-party charges incurred due to non-delivery of an order, or orders that have not been checked on delivery.

Our next day delivery service applies to working weekdays only and does not include weekends or bank holidays. This service is available up until 14:00 GMT on the day of placing an order. Orders received after 14:00 GMT with be dispatched on the following working weekday.

We are not able to process orders or deliver on UK Bank Holidays and Sundays.

All orders will be delivered to a single address. For security reasons your first order using a credit/debit card for the first time when placed online or by phone will need to be delivered to the cardholder's address. Subsequent orders can then be made to an alternative address.

We will always endeavour to make one single delivery to you wherever possible to minimise any inconvenience. This means that when your order contains a mix of products with different delivery lead times, the longest lead time will apply to the whole order.

All deliveries must be received and signed for by a person over the age of 18. If no-one is available to take the delivery, we will leave details at the address to rearrange delivery. We may need to make an additional handling charge for redelivery. Should no-one be available to take the redelivery we may cancel the order and refund your money, excluding any delivery charges.

Due to insurance guidelines, delivery personnel are unable to enter private residences. The recipient of the products is responsible for any additional lifting once the delivery has been made.

For orders requiring palletised delivery the haulage company will attempt to deliver pallets as close as possible to your required position, usually to the closest hard-standing area. The haulage company is under no obligation to remove items from the pallet, nor carry items into your property. You should warn the Company if there is restricted access, soft or gravelled driveways.

We are able to ship many of our products overseas. However, for some products, particularly those which are Big and Bulky, delivery fees may be rather high.

This depends on which items you order. For items with Next Day Delivery, you should receive your items the next working day (or the following day if you order after 2pm).

For other items, you should get confirmation of your order, and once it has been processed by our team, you'll be sent a delivery date from our courier.

For bespoke items, there is often a lead time of a couple of weeks, during which time we will create your bespoke product. We will keep you informed about the progress of such products.

This depends on which product(s) you purchase and where you live.

Please note that large, bulky items such as doors, radiators, fireplace surrounds, and large shipments of tiles will require pallet delivery, which is more costly than standard delivery.

Shipping costs for your order will be displayed at checkout.

If you would prefer to collect your order from our showroom in Llandrindod Wells, please contact us to arrange this.

You can cancel or amend your order up until it is packaged and shipped. We recommend contacting our team ASAP with any changes or cancellations.

If your order has already been packaged and/or shipped, you can still request a return once it has been delivered.

Please note that bespoke orders cannot be amended or cancelled if work has already begun.

If you haven't received your order by the expected date, we recommend using the order tracking number emailed you to check the status of your order.

If this doesn't help, please contact us for more information.

If your items are damaged, it's important you don't use them. Instead, get in touch with us via phone or email, attach images of the damage if possible, and we will arrange a return or replacement for your items.

Yes, provided it is not a bespoke item.

To submit a return, go to your Account, view your Orders, and select the order & items you would like to return. Returned items must be packaged safely to avoid damage in transit.

Also please note that it is the customer's responsibility to pay for return postage.

For most items, you have 30 days from the day of delivery to request a return.

Please send all returns to the following address: Period Property Store, Unit 33 Ddole Road, Llandrindod Wells, Powys, LD1 6DF.

If you have a relevant trade, such as interior designer, architect, joiner, carpenter, or a similar business, we invite you to open a Trade Account with us which will give you access to exclusive discounts on our products.

To set up your Trade Account, just complete the form on this page and a member of our team will be in touch.

Once your Trade Account has been approved, you'll be sent an email explaining how to use your discount, and which discounts are available to you.

To receive your discount, you must be logged into your Trade Account.

Discounts will only be visible at checkout.

With a Trade Account, you'll receive exclusive discounts on a wide variety of our products.

To learn the exact discounts available to you, please contact us at sales@periodpropertystore.co.uk

Most From The Anvil finishes are suitable for outdoor use as long as they’re maintained correctly. Each finish has its own care requirements, which you’ll find detailed on the relevant product page of our website.

We do, however, advise against using standard Beeswax items outside. The protective wax layer can deteriorate quickly in harsh weather, leaving the metal vulnerable to rust. If you love the Beeswax look and want to use it externally, choose From The Anvil’s External Beeswax finish instead. It offers the same appearance but uses an anti‑corrosive wax designed to withstand outdoor conditions.

We also recommend avoiding Natural Smooth and Natural Textured finishes for exterior applications.

Our Satin Marine SS and Polished Marine SS ranges are crafted from grade 316 stainless steel, offering excellent resistance to corrosion, which makes them ideal for coastal environments.

Unlacquered brass finishes—including Aged Brass and Polished Brass—can also be used near the coast. Just keep in mind that the salty air will speed up natural tarnishing, so more frequent cleaning is recommended to minimise the green patina that can develop.

For all other finishes, we advise against coastal installation, as the high salt content in the atmosphere will eventually cause them to rust.

It’s best to avoid installing ironmongery straight after decorating. Freshly plastered or painted rooms hold a lot of moisture, which can lead to light surface rust forming on the hardware. We recommend waiting at least two hours—or simply until everything is fully dry—before fitting your ironmongery.

Beeswax finishes can occasionally develop a light white bloom when exposed to temperature changes, and you may notice this when you first unwrap the product. This is completely normal and nothing to worry about. A gentle buff with a soft cloth will quickly restore the surface.

Maintenance wax provides an extra layer of protection for From The Anvil’s Beeswax finishes. In damp or humid spaces—such as kitchens or bathrooms—Beeswax products can occasionally develop a light rust film. If this happens, gently buff the area with wire wool, then apply a coat of maintenance wax using a cloth or brush. We recommend reapplying the wax from time to time to keep your Beeswax hardware well protected.

Most From The Anvil finishes are intentionally left unlacquered to create an authentic, living surface that naturally develops character over time. If you prefer to restore the original look, this ageing can be reversed with a metal polish such as Brasso.

We generally avoid using lacquer because it can wear away if not carefully maintained. However, our Pewter, Polished Bronze, Satin Brass, and Burnished Brass ranges do include a fine layer of clear lacquer for added protection. Aged Bronze products are finished with a coloured lacquer coating, which is exceptionally durable.

Both Aged Brass and Polished Brass will naturally tarnish over time, and this should not be confused with corrosion. The rate of tarnishing depends on the environment. Areas with higher levels of residue, pollution, or salt in the air will cause the brass to dull more quickly.

If you prefer to keep the bright finish, you can easily bring back the shine by gently polishing the surface with a soft cloth and some Brasso. If you like the character that develops, you can simply let the brass age naturally and form a rich, darker patina.

Even though the finish will change over time, you can always restore the original brightness with a quick polish. With the right care, brass hardware will last for many years.

The base materials used across most From The Anvil ranges are listed below:

• Black, Beeswax and Pewter finishes use mild steel

• Polished Brass, Aged Brass, Satin Brass, Burnished Brass, Nickel and Chrome finishes use solid brass

• Polished Bronze and Aged Bronze use solid bronze

• Satin Marine Stainless Steel and Polished Marine Stainless Steel use grade 316 marine stainless steel

Some specialist ranges, such as sinks or lighting, may use different base materials.

The type of handle you need depends on the door and the lock or latch you plan to use.

• Lever lock handles are paired with a five lever mortice lock and are typically used on exterior doors that need to be secured, such as front or back doors.

• Lever latch handles are used with standard mortice latches and are suited to internal doors that do not require locking, such as living room doors.

• Lever bathroom sets work with a bathroom mortice lock. These can be locked from the inside with a thumbturn and opened from the outside with a coin in an emergency, making them ideal for bathroom doors.

• Lever Euro handles are designed for use with Euro cylinders and Euro sash locks, often found on exterior doors such as patio or conservatory doors.

• Espagnolette lever handles are used with multi point locks and Euro cylinders on sliding or folding door sets, as well as modern front doors that use these locking systems.

All lever handles have a measurement known as the centre, which is the distance between the centre of the handle and the centre of the keyhole. This measurement determines which lock is compatible. All our lever handles follow standard British centre sizes to ensure they fit standard locks and latches.

If a lever handle does not spring back to the horizontal position, it usually means the handle is unsprung and the spring inside the existing lock or latch is not strong enough to lift it back up. There are a few ways to resolve this.

• You can replace the unsprung handle with a sprung version, which contains its own internal spring within the backplate.

• You can upgrade to a heavy duty lock or latch, which has a stronger spring capable of returning the handle to its correct position.

• If the problem persists, you can fit a spring unit cassette behind the handle or knob where it sits over the spindle. This reinforces the existing spring in the lock or latch and helps the handle return properly.

All locks and latches contain a spring that helps return the lever handle to its horizontal resting position after use. Sprung handles include an additional spring inside the rose or backplate to support this action. This is especially useful for heavier handles that may not lift back into place without extra assistance.

Unsprung handles do not contain this extra spring. They are commonly used with multi point locks where the handle needs to move in two directions, lifting upwards to lock the door and pushing downwards to operate the latch.
Most From The Anvil handles are sprung, but there are a few exceptions. Always check the product description to make sure you select the right option for your door and locking system.

Some handles are designed as left handed or right handed because their shape and movement need to align correctly with the locking mechanism. To work out which hand you need, stand on the side of the door that closes towards you. If the hinges are on the right, you will need a right handed handle. If the hinges are on the left, you will need a left handed handle.

Certain products, such as pull handles, are not handed because they do not interact with the lock in the same way. These can be used on both left and right hinged doors.

All From The Anvil mortice knobs are unsprung. This is because they are normally used with a latch, and having springs in both the knob and the latch can make the mechanism feel stiff or difficult to operate. Since the knobs do not contain their own spring, we recommend pairing them with a heavy duty latch to ensure smooth and reliable performance.

All our bathroom lever handles come with a fixed thumbturn. This means that depending on the layout of your bathroom, the handle may end up pointing in the wrong direction when the thumbturn is positioned on the inside of the door. Fortunately, this is simple to adjust.

Look for the washer or circlip on the back of one of the handles. Using a pair of circlip pliers, remove the circlip, rotate the lever to the position you need, and then replace the washer. This will allow the handle to face the correct way while keeping the thumbturn on the inside.

If you are unsure at any stage, feel free to contact us and we will be happy to guide you.

The type of lock or latch you need depends on where it will be used.

• Bathroom mortice locks are operated with a thumbturn on a bathroom lever handle, or with a door knob set and a separate thumbturn. They can be opened from the outside with a coin in an emergency.

• Euro cylinders are common in new builds and are usually paired with a Euro sash lock on patio or conservatory doors, or with multi point locks on modern front doors.

• Mortice latches are typically used on internal doors that do not require locking.

• Five lever sash locks offer the highest level of security and are recommended for exterior doors.

Locks and latches are available in Standard or Heavy Duty versions, which refers to the strength of the internal spring. Standard options are suitable for sprung handles, while Heavy Duty versions are recommended for unsprung or particularly heavy handles that need extra support to return to the horizontal position.

The key measurement when choosing a lock or latch is the backset. This is the distance from the centre of the door knob or handle spindle to the edge of the door.

For example, a lock with a case size of 64 mm, often described as a two and a half inch lock, usually has a backset of 44 mm. This means the centre of the knob or handle will sit 44 mm from the door edge.

A case size of 77 mm usually gives a backset of 56 mm.

The backset determines exactly where the spindle sits, which in turn affects how comfortable the handle or knob is to use. For door knobs in particular, we recommend choosing a lock or latch that is three inches or larger. This ensures the knob sits far enough from the edge of the door so you do not catch your knuckles when turning it.

Yes. To add a locking function to your thumblatch, you can replace the existing staple pin or screw on staple pin with a locking version. This type includes a metal pin attached to a leather strap, which can be dropped into place to hold the door shut. Locking staple pins and screw on staple pins are available in the Spares and Accessories section of our website.

Most modern doors are solid and at least 44 mm thick, so standard butt hinges or ball bearing butt hinges are usually suitable.

Ledge and brace doors are thinner and not compatible with these hinge types. For these, T hinges or strap hinges are recommended, as they also complement the traditional style of the door.

H and HL hinges can be used on a wide range of door styles and sizes. HL hinges offer extra strength, making them ideal for heavier doors or for reinforcing older or damaged doors and shutters.

Parliament hinges allow the door to swing clear of the frame when opened, which is useful if you need extra clearance. Butterfly hinges have a decorative shape and are often chosen for their visual appeal.

Stormproof hinges are designed for external windows and help create a tight, weather resistant seal.

Friction hinges are suitable for most windows and hold them in either an open or closed position without the need for additional stays.

You can find more detail on each hinge type on its product page, but if you are still unsure, feel free to get in touch and we will be happy to help.

The number of hinges you need mainly depends on the weight of the door. For most standard doors, one pair of hinges, meaning two hinges in total, is enough. If the door is particularly heavy, such as a solid oak door, you can add a third hinge to provide extra support. This applies to all hinge types, including butt hinges and T hinges.

If you are replacing a door or having a new one fitted, your carpenter will be able to advise on the correct number of hinges. If you are still unsure, feel free to contact us and we will be happy to help.

Most bolts fall into two main types: cranked or straight. Cranked bolts are fitted to the push side of an outward opening door and slot into a flat receiver plate. Straight bolts are fitted to the pull side of an inward opening door and shoot into a receiver bridge. Some bolts are supplied as universal options, meaning they come with multiple keep types so they can be used on both inward and outward opening doors.

We also offer flush or slide bolts, which are commonly used on sliding or folding doors. These sit flush with the edge or face of the door to create a neat, unobtrusive locking solution.

All products that require a spindle are supplied with the correct one, but you may occasionally need a spare or replacement. These are available to purchase separately.

Threaded spindles are designed for use with mortice or rim knob sets and come in different lengths and sizes, so it is important to check the requirements of your specific knob set before ordering.

Split spindles are used with all types of lever handles.

We also offer Taylors spindles, which can be threaded or non threaded. These are used with surface fix ironmongery when you want a decorative pull handle without a turning function, which is ideal for cupboard and wardrobe doors.

Choosing the right window handle depends on a few key factors.

• First, decide whether you want the handle to lock. If you do, choose a locking fastener. If not, a non locking fastener will be suitable.

• If your window already has an internal locking system, which is common on PVC windows, you will need an espagnolette handle.

• Next, consider whether you need ventilation. If so, choose a night venting handle, which allows the window to stay slightly open while remaining secure.

• After that, you can simply choose the style and finish that suits your space.

If you are still unsure which handle is right for your window, feel free to get in touch and we will be happy to help.

To work out which handing you need, stand inside your home and look at the window. If the handle opens clockwise away from the frame, you need a left handed handle. If it opens anticlockwise away from the frame, you need a right handed handle.

Normal fasteners allow the window to be secured in either the open or closed position. They are often used with an arm stay fixed to the lower frame, which lets you prop the window open but does not provide any added security.

Night venting fasteners work differently. They have a pin that projects away from the frame, allowing the window to be locked in a slightly open position. This provides ventilation while still keeping the window secure.

Yes. Our window stays can be locked by replacing the existing stay pin with a locking stay pin, which is available in the Spares and Accessories section of our website. Once fitted, the stay can be locked and unlocked using an Allen key.

Yes. Our window stays can be locked by replacing the existing stay pin with a locking stay pin, which is available in the Spares and Accessories section of our website. Once fitted, the stay can be locked and unlocked using an Allen key.

Fasteners work with a simple catch and release action, using a mortice plate on the edge of the window frame. They secure the window by hooking over the plate when closed.

Espagnolette handles operate a completely different system. They are designed to work with an espagnolette lock that sits inside the window frame. When the handle is turned, the spindle rotates and activates a shoot bolt mechanism within the lock, securing the window at multiple points. Because of this, espagnolette handles are supplied with a long spindle that can be cut to the required length, but the diameter remains standard so they are compatible with common lock types.

It is important to note that our espagnolette lever handles are handed, so you will need to choose the correct hand for your window. Each handle also includes a locking grub screw underneath, which can be tightened with an Allen key for added security.

To find the correct handing, look at your window from inside the property. If the handle opens clockwise away from the frame, you need a left handed espagnolette handle. If it opens anticlockwise away from the frame, you need a right handed handle.

The type of hinge you need depends on the style and construction of your window.

• Butt hinges are the most common choice and are suitable for standard windows.

• Half butterfly hinges offer a decorative alternative to butt hinges.

• Friction hinges allow the window to stay open at any position without needing extra hardware such as a stay.

• H and HL hinges provide additional support for large or heavy windows.

• Stormproof hinges are designed for rebated windows and help create a weather resistant seal.

• Shutter hinges are used specifically for fitting window shutters.

If you are unsure which hinge type is right for your window, speak to a local professional or get in touch with our team for friendly advice.

Yes. All From The Anvil cabinet hardware, including cabinet
knobs, pull handles, drawer pulls and T bar handles, is supplied with the
correct fixings, so you do not need to source any additional screws.

From The Anvil’s cabinet latches have a knob that rotates clockwise to retract a sprung latch, allowing the door to open.

Cabinet turns are simpler because they do not use a sprung latch mechanism. Instead, they have a knob with a metal bar attached. Turning the bar into a receiver hook locks the cupboard, and turning it clockwise releases it again.

If your curtain pole is longer than you need, you can cut it down to size using a good quality metal saw. Take care when cutting, as the edges may be sharp. Always file the ends afterwards to ensure they are smooth and safe to handle.

If you need a curtain pole longer than the sizes offered, you can join two of From The Anvil’s poles together using a joining bar, which is available in the Accessories section of the website. The joining bar can be glued into place and will need the support of an additional mounting bracket to take the extra weight. We recommend positioning the joining bar in the centre of the two poles so it stays hidden behind the curtains and does not interfere with their movement.

Because of the way From The Anvil’s mounting brackets support the curtain poles, they are not suitable for the angles found in a bay window.

For From The Anvil’s standard curtain poles, we recommend using at least two mounting brackets. Heavier curtains may require additional support. If you are joining two or more poles together, you will also need an extra mounting bracket at each join to support the added weight and keep the pole stable.

The number of curtain rings you need depends on the length of your curtain pole. As a guide, we recommend using around four rings for every 300 millimetres of pole. This works out at roughly twelve to thirteen rings for a one metre pole, twenty rings for a one point five metre pole, and about twenty six rings for a two metre pole.

The latch you need depends on the type of handle you are using. For a sprung lever handle, a standard latch is suitable. For unsprung lever handles or unsprung knob sets, including all of From The Anvil’s knob sets, we recommend a heavy duty latch with a stronger spring to help return the handle to its horizontal position. If you are using a lever on rose handle or a knob set, a horizontal latch can also be used.

The size of lock you need depends on the door furniture you plan to use. For a lever handle, a two and a half inch or three inch lock is usually suitable. If you are using a door knob, we recommend choosing a lock that is three inches or larger. This ensures the knob sits far enough from the edge of the door frame so you can turn it comfortably. Using a lock that is too small may cause your knuckles to catch on the frame when operating the knob.

The difference lies in the strength of the spring inside the mechanism. Standard locks use a lighter spring, which is suitable for sprung lever handles and sprung knobs. Heavy duty locks contain a much stronger spring, giving them the power needed to return an unsprung lever handle or an unsprung door knob, including all of From The Anvil’s knob sets, back to its original position.

A mortice sash lock contains both a latch bolt and a deadbolt. The latch bolt allows the door to open and close and is operated by a lever handle or door knob. The deadbolt is operated with a key to lock and unlock the door.

A mortice deadlock only contains a deadbolt and does not include a latch. It is operated solely with a key and does not require a lever handle or door knob to function.

A deadlock is a type of lock that can only be operated with a key when it is in deadlock mode. Deadlocks usually contain either three or five levers, with more levers providing a higher level of security. They can be locked and unlocked from both sides of the door and typically work independently of any lever handle or door knob.

A deadbolt is similar in function but does not contain levers. Instead of being operated with a key, it is often used on bathroom doors and is turned manually with a thumbturn to lock and unlock the door.

A three lever lock contains three levers, while a five lever lock contains five. The greater the number of levers, the more secure the lock becomes, as additional levers make key duplication more difficult.

A five lever lock may also be certified to BS3621, whereas a three lever lock will not meet this standard.

Three lever locks are generally suited to internal doors. Five lever locks offer a higher level of security and can be used on external doors.

A Euro cylinder lock has a long barrel containing several internal pins, usually five or six, which are aligned by a key to operate the lock. These locks are widely used across Europe and are known for being straightforward to install and replace.

Euro cylinder locks are suitable for uPVC, timber, composite and aluminium doors. For internal doors, a five pin cylinder is generally sufficient. For external doors, we recommend using at least a six pin cylinder, or more, to provide a higher level of security.

To find the correct size Euro cylinder, you will need to take a few measurements. Start by measuring the thickness of your door. Then measure the thickness of the backplate on the interior side, followed by the backplate on the exterior side. Add these three measurements together. For example, if your door is seventy millimetres thick and each backplate is five millimetres, the total measurement will be eighty millimetres.

This total is then split into two values, usually equally, giving you a cylinder size of forty forty.

Measure from the centre of the fixing screw hole to the outer edge of the handle backplate on the exterior side of the door. Take the measurement in millimetres and round it up to the nearest five millimetres. This ensures the Euro cylinder sits just beyond the backplate while keeping the projection as small as possible.

Repeat the same process on the interior side. These two measurements will not always be the same. For example, if the exterior measurement is forty millimetres and the interior measurement is thirty five millimetres, you will need a forty thirty five cylinder.

If you lose or damage a part of your product, you can usually purchase a replacement from the Spares and Accessories section of From The Anvil’s website. If you cannot find the exact piece you need, get in touch with the team and they will be able to help you source a suitable replacement.

All From The Anvil’s pendant lights are supplied fully
wired, complete with a matching ceiling rose and all required fittings. Each
light includes one point five metres of black fabric cable as standard. If you
need additional cable, it can be purchased in one metre increments.

Yes, absolutely. Because all of From The Anvil’s lights are made to order, you can choose to have them colour matched to any RAL code for a small additional fee. We use the standardised RAL system to achieve the closest possible match, and we will confirm the colour with you before your lights go into production.

To test a paint colour, we recommend purchasing a sample pot and using it to paint a piece of paper. With this, you can move the colour around to see how the paint changes in different lights (plus, it saves having to paint over swatches on your wall).

In general, you should order enough paint for two coats of your chosen topcoat colour, plus one coat of Primer & Undercoat.

While the exact amount of paint needed for your project will depend on the chosen finish and application surface, Farrow & Ball follow these estimates:

• 750ml covers approximately 4.5sqm
• 2.5 litres covers approximately 15sqm
• 5 litres covers approximately 30sqm

Yes! Farrow & Ball's paints are water-based, low odour and rated A+ for indoor air quality (even the Eggshell and Full Gloss finishes). Plus, all their emulsion paints are vegan friendly with the lowest possible VOC rating. All of their paints and papers are handcrafted in Dorset using 100% renewable energy and sending 0 manufacturing waste to landfill.

Even though Farrow & Ball wallpapers are made with their own paints, the traditional manufacturing methods they use mean that the colours can look slightly different on wallpaper than they do on your walls. For this reason, we recommend sampling your paint and wallpapers to see how the work in your space.

To figure out how many rolls of wallpaper you’ll need, you can follow these helpful steps:

1. Measure the height and width of the surface you’re papering (and note any areas that don’t need wallpaper, like windows and doorways).

2. Find the pattern repeat of your chosen paper, which will be listed within the product information on our website, or on your sample paper. The pattern repeat is the distance between the pattern starting, finishing, and starting again. It’s important to be aware of this so you can line the pattern up properly. Some papers, such as stripes, don’t have a pattern repeat, which makes these papers easier to hang.

3. Use the measurements of your surface, pattern repeat, and wallpaper roll (all Farrow & Ball wallpaper rolls are 10m long and 53cm wide) to calculate how many rolls you need. For a standard, 2.4m high room, Farrow & Ball estimate:

• 3 drops per roll for small pattern repeats e.g. Samphire
• 4 drops per roll for striped papers e.g. Closet Stripe
• 2 drops per roll for large pattern repeats e.g. Helleborus

For example, papering Closet Stripe on a wall measuring 2.5m wide in a standard room would require approximately 5 drops, so roughly 2 rolls.

4. Add one more roll! Whatever you estimate, we recommend adding one more roll to allow for trimming or mistakes when hanging. This is especially important for Farrow & Ball because their traditional techniques mean that the pattern and colour can differ slightly between batches.

Aside from your lovely new wallpaper, these are the items we think you may need to hang your wallpaper:

• Step Ladder - particularly if you're wallpapering high walls or ceilings.
• Dust Sheets - to protect your floors and furnishings from spills, splashes and drips.
• Decorating Table - this gives you a clean, flat and stable surface to measure, cut and apply paste to your wallpaper.
• Wallpaper Paste - Farrow & Ball's starch wallpaper paste and handcrafted wallpapers are designed for use together. It's non-acidic to protect your chosen pattern and one tube of Farrow & Ball wallpaper paste can hang up to 5 rolls of their wallpaper.
• Bucket and Stir Stick - essential for mixing your wallpaper paste with water to create the right consistency.
• Wallpaper Scissors - we don't advise using regular scissors; wallpaper scissors are extra long and sharp to ensure you cut your paper in a clean, straight line.
• Plumb Line - this is a weight suspended from a string. Simple but effective, it creates a perfectly straight, vertical line for you to reference when hanging your wallpaper. It's a far better comparison than a door or window as these are rarely actually straight.
• Wallpaper Hanging Brush - these wide brushes are the best way to smooth out wallpaper once it's been hung and remove any lingering air bubbles.
• Seam Roller - this small tool flattens the joins between wallpaper drops, helping create that seamless look.
• Utility Knife and Straight Edge - a sharp knife with a straight edge tool for guidance is the best way to trim excess paper and cut around light fittings or plug sockets - this gives a much cleaner cut than scissors.
• Sponge or Microfibre Cloth with a Bucket of Clean Water - for a flawless finish, any paste left on the face of your wallpaper must be cleaned off, otherwise it can damage the pattern over time. Make sure to wash your sponge or cloth in clean water between wiping each section.

Grout colour has a big impact on the finished look of your wall or floor. While it ultimately comes down to personal preference, we generally recommend choosing a grout shade that blends with Ca’ Pietra’s stone or tiles so the focus stays on the surface, not the joints. Depending on the tile, you can also opt for a contrasting grout if you want to create more of a feature.

Most tiles are given a slip rating to help you understand where they can be safely used. Tiles with higher slip resistance are suitable for wet rooms, outdoor areas or anywhere with a greater risk of slipping. Slip ratings are measured in two ways: PTV (Pendulum Test Value) and R ratings.

PTV stands for Pendulum Test Value, which measures how slippery a surface is when a foot makes contact with it. The pendulum mimics the action of a shoe on the tile, and the results determine the PTV or R rating. These ratings help identify where the tile is suitable:

• PTV 11–18 (R9) – Low friction. Suitable for dry internal domestic areas such as kitchens, dining rooms and hallways.
• PTV 18–34 (R10) – Medium friction. Suitable for internal domestic floors that may occasionally get wet, such as bathrooms.
• PTV 34–51 (R11) – High friction. Suitable for external areas including patios, walkways, pool surrounds and changing areas.

A pendulum test uses two types of rubber to replicate both barefoot and footwear conditions. The rubber slider strikes the tile surface in the same way a heel would at the moment a slip occurs. The machine measures how much the surface reduces the pendulum’s energy, giving a slip‑resistance value. Tests are carried out in both wet and dry conditions. A higher slip‑resistance rating indicates a lower likelihood of slipping.

For an R rating, the tile is fixed to a ramp which is gradually raised until the tester —-barefoot or wearing a specified shoe type - slips. The test is repeated on dry, wet and contaminated surfaces. The average of these results determines the R rating assigned to the material.

Ca’ Pietra tiles should always be installed by an experienced professional, as different materials require different tools and techniques. Natural stone and many tiles can be cut using a diamond blade, ideally on a water‑cooled machine. Some porcelain, glass and ceramic tiles can be cut using a scribe‑and‑snap cutter. Very thin tiles may need specialist tools such as glass cutters, manual tile cutters, tile‑cutter rulers or a frame used with a handheld angle grinder.

No - the delivery service is kerbside only, using a tail‑lift courier. Once the pallet is unloaded, the goods become the responsibility of the site team. Drivers are not insured to move products into the property or remove packaging, so it’s essential that someone is present to receive the order.

“Frost resistance” refers to a stone’s ability to withstand freeze–thaw cycles. There is no strict pass/fail under BS standards — the tests simply allow comparison between materials. Natural stone varies by quarry location and batch, which affects density, porosity and frost‑resistant strength.

Testing involves at least 56 cycles of freezing and thawing to simulate winter conditions. After testing, the stone is assessed visually or through strength testing to identify any changes. Ca’ Pietra reviews these results to determine suitability for the UK climate.

It’s important to note that freeze–thaw testing is carried out on dry stone. In real conditions, water within the stone expands when frozen, increasing stress on more porous materials. Some anti‑slip finishes can also open the grain of the stone, making it more vulnerable to freeze–thaw weathering.

Yes — Ca’ Pietra porcelain paving is fully frost‑proof. Because porcelain is vitrified and non‑porous, it does not absorb water and therefore will not crack or deteriorate in freezing temperatures, making it suitable for year‑round outdoor use.

Natural Stone - YES – Stain Block Eco or Stain Block / Stone Shield
Terracotta - YES – Stain Block Eco and Stone Shield or Linseed Oil and Bees Wax -SEE Sealing guides in the question below for different finishes.
Terrazzo - YES – Stain Block Eco or Stain Block
Reformed Stone – YES – Stain Block Eco or Stain Block / Stone Shield
Crackle Glaze Products - YES – Crackle Glaze Sealer
Victorian Style floor collection – YES – Porcelain Pre grout barrier
Porcelain - NO
Ceramic – NO
Porcelain Paving - OPTIONAL Pre Grout Barrier

Generally, no, due to the natural expanding ad shrinking from heat/cold. However, Ca’Pietra’s Minérale range does not require grouting.

We recommend using Ca’Pietra’s Cement, Grout & Salt Residue remover.

Mix the grout according to the instructions on the bag, then work into the grout joint using a grouting float. Leave to dry and wash excess away as per instructions on the bag.

Yes, grout may stain stone and tiles, particularly if strong contrasting colours are used. This is more common with natural materials and terracotta. If staining occurs, we recommend using Ca’Pietra’s Cement, Grout & Salt Residue remover.

All Ca’Pietra floor tiles are compatible with underfloor heating, except for their Minerale range.

Yes, as long as they aren’t in direct contact with the heat (recommended distance between heat is above 20cm). Ca’Pietra’s Terrazzo and Minerale range cannot be used around a fireplace.

Ca’Pietra’s porcelain, ceramic, and terracotta tiles are all heat-resistant. However, other materials may be damaged by prolonged exposure to high temperatures.

The majority of Ca’Pietra tiles are suitable for shower walls, except for the Minérale range.

Terracotta and Crackle Glazed tiles can be used, provided they are sealed with Crackle Glaze Sealer.

Not all Ca’Pietra tiles can be used on shower floors due to slip resistance and water absorption. Please check the slip rating on the product pages if you are unsure.

For best practice we would recommend the removal of any original tile floor, however this is not necessary if you are installing Minérale range which can installed as a floating floor. The surface should be as flat and as level as possible – An ideal surface to tile onto is a screed or a waterproof overboards such as NoMorePly or dukkaboard.

Measure the length and width of the area and multiply these together to get the M2 area. For complex shaped walls or floors, break the area down into several smaller squares or rectangles, and add the M2 of each smaller area together. To find out the M2 of a triangular shaped area, multiply both the length and width (the sides of the triangle that meet at a right angle) and divide the answer by two. We always recommend ordering an extra 10% to account for breakages, cuts and wastage during installation, and this should also cover you for any miscalculations.

We recommend measuring your area to get the M2 and adding an extra 10% to account for any breakages, cuts and wastage.

For all ranges except the Minérale range, Adhesive and Grout are need for application.

Natural Stone, Terracotta, Terrazzo, Victorian Style Floor and Crackle Glaze tiles also need sealant.

We recommend that you open a box of tiles and view all the variations before installing them. If a tile has lots of variation, you may want to choose how each tile is laid to achieve an even looking mix once installed.

Tiling onto plasterboard is not advised, due to the softness and water absorption of the material. We would recommend over boarding with wall tile boards, and also applying waterproof tanking in any wet areas.

We would always recommend installing a waterproof overboard such as Nomoreply or Dukkaboard before tiling over timber floorboards. We would never recommend tiling directly on top of wooden flooring.

This is not advised as a floating floor needs the ability to expand and contract when the temperature changes. Tiling over a floating floor could result in cracks and breakages.

Each Little Greene paint & wallpaper features complementary colours to enable you to create a coordinated colour scheme.

On our website, each paint shade and colourway showcases coordinating colours.

You can also order Little Greene’s ‘Little Book of Colour’ which is a compact tool that helps you colour coordinate with confidence.

Unfortunately, Little Greene do not use RAL codes as a reference so we are unable to provide this information.

Depending on the device used and screen resolution, the paint colours depicted on the website can appear slightly different to the paint when applied to a surface. We recommend testing a colour before purchase to ensure you are happy with the final result.

Yes, absolutely! We offer sample pots of Little Greene shades in their most popular finish; Absolute Matt Emulsion. This is ideal for colour testing on your own walls.

We recommend painting the colour onto a piece of A4 paper and moving it around the room throughout the day. This will help you visualise how the colour will appear in different settings.

These are Little Greene’s upgraded versions of their Matt, Eggshell, Satin & Gloss finishes which use groundbreaking paint technology so you can prime and paint any surface from a single tin.

These environmentally friendly finishes innovatively combine primer and topcoat in a single tin of paint, meaning they can be painting directly onto almost any surface of the home without the need of a separate primer.

Surfaces include wood, plaster, metal (including radiators), plastics, uPVC, melamine, Formica® and even tiles and glass.

All Intelligent paint finishes are available in every colour in the Little Greene palette, so there are virtually no limits in bringing fabulous colour to all corners of the home.

Intelligent Grip™ brings the technology of the primer into the topcoat, thereby removing the need for a separate primer without compromising the finish. These paints don’t require significant surface preparation; only aged oil-based gloss requires a light sanding to guarantee premium adhesion and finish. All other surfaces just need to be stable, clean and dry to receive an amazing single-tin Intelligent Paint treatment.

Absolute Matt Emulsion is Little Greene’s original classic flat paint for walls and has the most matt finish offered by any Little Greene paint.

Intelligent Matt Emulsion is the most popular of Little Greene’s Intelligent Paints and is more durable and completely washable; ideal for high traffic areas.

Both of these eggshell finishes are suitable for interior use, particularly when painting woodwork and primed metals.

Intelligent Eggshell is a self-priming water-based paint formulated to resist moisture, staining and general wear and tear. It has a tough yet subtle finish and is a superb paint for woodwork and kitchen and bathroom walls.

Interior Oil Eggshell is a more traditional, oil-based paint with a gloss level of 10-20% suitable for most surfaces including woodwork ad primed metals. This finish requires time to fully cure following application and the paint should be cured after 4 years.

Water-based paints and thinner and therefore dry quicker than oil-based alternatives. They also have a lower VOC (volatile organic compounds) content which means they’re more eco-friendly.

With a nine hundred year pedigree, oil-based paints have long been recognised as the classic finish for woodwork. By forming a deeper bond with the surface than is possible with a quick-drying paint, traditional oil-based recipes are renowned for their increase longevity, excellent flow and smooth finish. 

For painting wood, including skirting boards and kitchen cabinets, we recommend Little Greene’s quick-drying, hard-wearing Intelligent Satin finish. For a lower sheen finish, Intelligent Eggshell is an excellent choice.

To paint wood flooring, we recommend Little Greene’s Intelligent Floor Paint which has a drying time of just 2 hours.

Melamine can be painted using Little Greene’s Intelligent finishes, including Intelligent Satin, Intelligent Eggshell and Intelligent Gloss.

Radiators can be painted using Little Greene’s Intelligent finishes, including Intelligent Satin, Intelligent Eggshell and Intelligent Gloss. Unlike all modern day solvent-based paints, they are guaranteed not to yellow upon exposure to heat.

If you’re applying paint directly to bare metal, or painting over a radically different colour beneath, use Intelligent ASP to build up coverage and maximise adhesion.

All Little Greene’s water-based paints are low odour. Their most environmentally friendly paints (the Intelligent range) have all been certified as child safe under EN 71-3:2019 (also known as the Toy Paint Regulations).

This certification includes Intelligent Matt Emulsion, Intelligent Eggshell, Intelligent Gloss, Intelligent ASP, Intelligent Satin, and Intelligent Floor Paint.

All Industville fittings can be wired to UL wiring. We offer a rewiring service for £30 per fitting/drop, or we can provide unwired components.

If there is a UL holder readily available, we will swap the original CE holder at no additional cost. If the UL holder is not available on site, we can still swap it for an additional cost of £30 per fitting/drop through Industville’s rewiring service.

If this is something you’d like, we recommend contacting us directly for more information.

Yes, the majority of Industville shades can be purchased separately. Simply choose the ‘Shade Only’ option when adding your product to the cart.

Industville offer a bespoke service which allows them to create many of their shades in a variety of finishes. To learn more about this, please contact us and we’ll let you know if your request is possible and provide you with a quote.

Industville lights are offered in a range of IP ratings including IP20, IP44 and IP65. Industville’s Outdoor & Bathroom range are all IP65 rated, meaning that they’re both weather-proof and waterproof. These are the only Industville lights which should be used externally or in damp environments.

All Industville pendant lights come with a 1m Flex as standard.

Industville’s Globe Collection and 5 Wire Pendants come with 2m Flex.

Flex can be shortened to your desired length. If you need longer Flex or a different colour Flex, please contact us and we can provide this for an additional cost.

Yes, we can supply a continuous length of Flex which your electrician can adjust on site. This Flex is sold by the metre and delivered in a continuous length. We offer a variety of colours, available in either round or twisted variants. 

Yes! Industville offer 1, 3, 5 and 7 outlet ceiling roses which can support multiple lights.

All Industville pendant and wall lights are supplied as a complete set (unless you have chosen the ‘Shade Only’ option). The majority of Industville holders come with brackets, but please note that screws are not provided.

All Industville bulbs have a 1 year warranty which covers manufacturing faults.

All Industville bulbs are E27 fitments; Industville do not use B22 Bayonet fittings.

Yes, all Industville LED bulbs are dimmable. When selecting your dimmer switch, please ensure it is LED compatible and has a trailing edge.

Most Industville lights are tested to the dimmer switch: V-PRO 1 to 2-way dimmer 230v-50hz. 

While Industville lights are not emergency lights as standard, they can be converted to emergency lighting using an external battery pack. Please consult a qualified electrician for this.

Industville’s light fittings can be installed on plasterboard, though we always recommend using a support backing or wooden support frame behind the plasterboard to support the weight of the products. We suggest consulting a qualified electrician when installing Industville fittings.

The extra holes in Industville’s Outdoor & Bathroom pendants’ ceiling fixtures are for excess water drainage. This has been added as an additional precaution in the unlikely event of water entering the light fitting.

Of course! If you need to order any spares or additional parts for your Industville product, please contact us directly. 

Industville’s 1m pendant chain can support up to 18kg.

Industville’s light fittings are compatible with PIR bulbs (otherwise known as dusk-to-dawn or motion sensor bulbs) and these can easily be fitted at home. Both indoor and outdoor light fittings can be used with these bulbs to create a motion-detecting light for safety and security reasons.

We recommend using the Elrigs Motion Sensor ED Bulb with Dusk to Dawn, as they offer the functionality of adjusting the sensitivity, the duration of time switched on, and the proximity of movement.

Typically, Industville lights are not supplied with the bulb. This gives you the freedom to purchase the bulb you want separately. You’ll find suggested light bulb choices for your chosen fitting indicated clearly in the product description of each light.

A mixture of clay, quartz and other materials are tightly compacted through a hydraulic press in a process known as Pressing. The tiles are then fired at extremely high temperatures (much higher than other tile materials) and sorted by hand to ensure colour consistency and accuracy.

Yes, all Olde English Tiles are fully vitrified. This means that they have been fired at exceedingly high temperatures, which creates a dense, glass-like substance which is waterproof, stain-resistant, scratch-resistant, and ideal for heavy traffic both indoors and outdoors.

Of course! Ready-made patterns are available to purchase on our website, but we can also offer bespoke pattern services. Get in touch for help designing your pattern. Or, if you already know what you want, you can order your tiles individually and create a bespoke pattern yourself.

Yes, because Olde English Tiles are fully vitrified, they’re water-resistant, frost-resistant, scratch-resistant, and stain-resistant which makes them perfect for use externally or in harsh conditions.

Olde English tiles are made from vitrified clay.

We recommend consulting a professional tile layer to fit your floor tiles. Tiles should be laid on a flat, sound base using a cementitious tile adhesive, and grouted with a fine, cement-based grout. Ensure that exterior tiling is laid in a way which prevents water from pooling.

The tiled floor should be completely dry prior to sealing to prevent moisture getting trapped under the seal (otherwise, cloudy, white patches may form). We recommend sealing the tiles using Lithofin KF StainStop, and if desired, a top coat sheen can be achieved using Lithofin KF Tile Polish.

Please note that exterior tiles should not be sealed as this can compromise their frost-resistance.

Because Olde English Tiles are natural clay, there may be small variations in both size and shading, particularly between boxes. In this scenario, we recommend mixing tiles of the same colour from different boxes to ensure that any colour variations are distributed evenly.

All Olde English Tiles are 9-10mm thick.

Some tile sheets are thinner than this – please check the product information below the specific tile sheet for more information.

Lincrusta has a shelf life of 18 months to 2 years from its production date when stored at normal room temperature. We recommend purchasing only when needed because the material begins a natural curing process once manufactured.

Lincrusta should be kept at room temperature and handled carefully to avoid surface damage. After soaking and pasting, it becomes more pliable and easier to work with.

Lincrusta requires a well‑prepared, clean, dry surface. Prior to installation, old paper should be removed, the surfaces should be washed down, and all imperfections should be filled and allowed to dry fully.

• Porous surfaces: rub down and apply a coat of size (diluted regular wallpaper adhesive).
• Non-porous surfaces (e.g. solvent-painted walls): crossline to give perfect adhesion. Apply lining paper using a ready-mixed adhesive containing a fungicide.
  

Lincrusta’s own brand of adhesive has been formulated specifically for the installation of Lincrusta, therefore we only recommend using Lincrusta adhesive.

We do not recommend using any other brand or Adhesive.

If you find your Lincrusta Adhesive is a little thick, stir it well – do not dilute.

We recommend having the following equipment ready prior to installing your Lincrusta products:

• Sharp knife
• Tape measure
• Spiring level
• Felt smoothing roller
• 50-75mm synthetic bristle paint brush or roller
• Straight edge
• Sponge
• Cutting board
• Pencil
• Plumb line

These are the general steps we recommend following for Lincrusta information. Please note that these steps are only intended for guidance – we recommend consulting a professional or contacting us for information specific to your project.

1. Plan your starting and finishing points in the room (this helps reduce wastage) and mark a vertical plumb line to hang your first length.
2. Match the pattern where necessary. Cut individual lengths to size, adding 50mm at the top and bottom for trimming.
3. Cut to the left and right trim positions using a sharp knife and straight edge (take care to avoid edge damage).
4. Wet the back of the paper with warm water using a sponge. For best results, place lengths back to back and leave for approximately 5-8 minutes.
5. Remove any excess water using a sponge or cloth.
6. Apply Lincrusta Adhesive to the back of the Lincrusta using a 50-75mm synthetic bristle paint brush.
7. Apply length to the surface and smooth down using a 178mm felt smoothing roller, working from the middle to the outer edges and expelling any air bubbles.
8. To form the lower edge, mark the Lincrusta at each side with a pencil, level with the top of the skirting or dado. Place a cutting board behind the Lincrusta leaning against the wall and cut between pencil marks using a sharp knife and straight edge. Repeat at the top.
9. Sponge off any surplus adhesive from the surface.
10. Leave to dry for at least 24 hours prior to decorating.

For more detailed instructions and visual reference’s, please see Lincrusta’s Wall Hanging Guide.

• Internal corners: cut to fit into the corner. Hang the remaining off-cut to a plumb line on the adjacent wall, trimming to fit in the corner. Trim any areas of high relief in the corner at a 45° angle to fit.
• External corners: for gently rounded corners, Lincrusta can be smoothed round in one piece. Where the angle is sharp, cut the Lincrusta to finish flush at the corner. Hang the remaining off-cut to a plumb line on the adjacent wall, equal to the minimum width of the off-cut. Fill any gaps at the external corner using linseed putty.

For more detailed instructions and visual reference’s, please see Lincrusta’s Wall Hanging Guide.

• Cut the Lincrusta into required lengths, ensuring the design is centred at the mid-point of the main wall. Continue matching the pattern in the corners with subsequent lengths, finishing at the least obvious corner or point in the room.
• If your wall is more than 2m long, we recommend that you cut the frieze into sections across the depth (using the design to hide your cut), or for longer lengths ensure that additional support is available to hold the frieze during installation.
• Cut to the top and bottom trim positions using a sharp knife and straight edge.

For more detailed instructions and visual reference’s, please see Lincrusta’s Wall Hanging Guide.

1. Plan your starting and finishing points in the room (this helps prevent wastage) and make a vertical plumb line to which to hang your first length.
2. Cut individual panels from the roll, and cut to the left and right trim positions using a sharp knife and straight edge.
3. Measure the length of the dado panel. Mark a horizontal line along the wall above the skirting board, allowing for trimming of the dado panel.

For more detailed instructions and visual reference’s, please see Lincrusta’s Wall Hanging Guide.

1. Measure the height of the dado panel, minus 25mm.
2. Mark a vertical plumn line at the base of the stairs. Repeat at the top of the stairs.
3. Join the two points using chalk and a snap line.
4. Cut a dado panel into two halves.
5. Make a template: cut a piece of lining paper to the same size as the half dado panel. Place the vertical edge of the lining paper against the plumb line at the base of the stairs and mark the skirting at the opposite side of the template. Join the corner up to this mark and cut across this line. This gives you a rake template.
6. Place the template on the Lincrusta dado half panel and cut across the half panel. Put the cut-off triangle to one side (you’ll need it for later).
7. Apply the first half of the panel t the skirting, keeping it aligned to the vertical plumb line, and then apply the triangle cut from the base to the top of the panel.
8. Where the dado panel reaches the dado line, mark a horizontal line across the wall at least the width of the half panel. Apply the next half dado panel to the horizontal line.
9. Continue using this method until the top of the stairs is reach, then proceed along the wall with full dado panels.

For more detailed instructions and visual reference’s, please see Lincrusta’s Wall Hanging Guide.

There are 3 recommended methods for preparing Lincrusta products for painting/decorating:

1. Apply 1 coat of Lincrusta Bonding Primer to the surface, following the instructions on the label. Allow to dry for 60 minutes before subsequent coats of paint are applied.
2. Spray the surface with Lincrusta Surface Degrease to remove any grease. Agitate it into detailed areas using a paint brush, then wash off and leave to dry for 60 minutes. Apply a coat of appropriate primer (use water-based acrylic primer or oil-based primer dependant on the paint to be used).
3. Brush the surface with White Spirit or Turps Substitute to remove any grease. Wipe with a lint-free cloth and leave to dry overnight. Apply a coat of appropriate primer (use water-based acrylic primer or oil-based acrylic primer dependent on the paint to be used).

Please note: for health and safety reasons, we recommend leaving all solvent-soaked rags laid out flat to fully dry. We also recommend wearing safety goggles and gloves while using White Spirit.

Lincrusta can be painted using either oil-based or water-based paint systems. We recommend applying 2 coats of eggshell or matt emulsion to create the base. Additional colours/coats can be applied to create decorative effects.

A decorator’s varnish can be applied to water-based systems for extra protection if needed.

Please ensure you prepare your Lincrusta for the correct paint application (oil vs. water based) as specified above.

Yes of course, just ensure you prepare the surface appropriately. For this, we recommend cleaning the surface to remove dirt, grease, and any contamination. Then, apply a suitable base coat which is appropriate for the paint finish required. If switching from an oil-based system to a water-based system, we recommend priming the surface first.

Yes! While we try and list as many finishes as possible on our website, we can actually provide completely bespoke radiators and can colour match to almost any shade, with over 10,000 paints available. We can also offer radiators in a selection of product-specific paints which come in a range of finishes, such as semi-gloss, full-gloss and satin.

To discuss your unique project, please contact us directly.

Carron’s cast iron radiators are made using proven methods and meticulous attention to detail. Each cast iron radiator section is checked for marks and imperfections which are fettled and rubbed down in preparation for painting, polishing or hand burnishing.

To achieve a highly durable paint finish, each radiator section is primed and painted individually, assuring each section is evenly covered. Particular attention is required when hand burnishing and highlighting each section of the radiators.

The radiator sections are then assembled by hand and held together using connectors and high quality seals. All Carron radiators are put through vigorous and robust testing; a continuous high pressure is applied for a minimum of 24 hours at a rate well beyond that of normal water pressure found in UK domiciles.

After testing is complete, a final round of painting or hand polishing is carried out to perfectly finish the radiators and safeguard a high-quality finish. Once completed, the radiators are inspected and given a QC stamp of approval, before being packaged up and placed on a pallet ready for dispatch.

Due to the size and weight of Carron’s cast iron radiators, pallet delivery is essential. Your radiator will be carefully packaged and loaded onto a pallet. Radiators that are over 1200mm in length are often delivered in multiple parts to ensure the product fits on a pallet.

All Carron cast iron radiators come with a lifetime warranty. With this warranty, Carron guarantees that their radiators are free from defects in material and workmanship at the time of purchase. For this Lifetime Guarantee to apply, you must follow the care and use instructions provided with your product and only normal, domestic use is covered. Carron will replace defective products free of charge with the same (or a similar product if the original one is no longer available). This guarantee does not cover damage caused by normal wear and tear, accident, misuse, abuse, or commercial use.

Heated towel rails and ancillary items (including, but not limited to, valves, pipe shrouds, and wall stays) are covered by Carron’s normal 12 month warranty. Plumbing costs and the costs associated with removal/reinstatement of the radiators both to and from the property are not covered.

The warranty for each product can be found on its product page.

To connect two parts of a radiator (part A and part B), you can use the following instructions:

1. Place Part A of the radiator as close as possible to its final installation location (avoid moving a fully assembled radiator more than necessary as this can cause damage or leaks).
2. Use an adjustable spanner to remove the end bushes from Part B. If the radiator is painted, protect the finish by placing a thick cloth over the bushes before loosening. The end cap may loosen clockwise or anti clockwise.
3. Ensure all mating faces are clean and free of rust, paint, debris, or remnants of old seals. If needed, use a sharp blade to clean back to bare metal.
4. Insert the connectors with a quarter turn onto the top and bottom threads of Part A. If the connectors do not engage, flip them over and try the opposite side.
5. Place a graphite seal onto each connector.
6. Check that seals are undamaged as missing or damaged seals will cause leaks.
7. Move Part B as close as possible to Part A. Place the assembly tool on top of Part B. Ensure the tool is 2–3 cm longer than the radiator section being joined. Mark the opening on the tool.
8. Insert the tool to your mark and tighten 3–4 turns. Repeat for the bottom connector. Alternate between top and bottom, tightening gradually until both sides are fully together. A socket wrench is recommended. Do not overtighten as this can damage the graphite seals.
9. Ensure all faces are clean, then place a graphite seal onto each end bush. Screw the bushes back onto the radiator and tighten with an adjustable spanner. Protect painted surfaces with a thick cloth while tightening and avoid over-tightening. The end bush may tighten clockwise or anti clockwise.
10. Once the radiator is assembled, you can use the supplied touch-up paint to conceal the graphite seal between parts A & B, and the reattached end bushes.
    

The size of the radiator you need will depend on the model you choose. Typically, radiator requirements are based on the heat output needed to heat a space. For this, we recommend using the free heat output calculator included on our cast iron radiator product pages. By entering the specifics about your chosen space, you’ll be able to see how many BTUs/Watts are needed and can select a radiator size that’s suitable.

We have included a helpful BTU calculator on every Carron radiator page to help you select the best product for your home. Simply select the type of room you wish to hear (e.g. bedroom), then enter the length, width and heigh of the space in metres or feet depending on your preference. If you have North-facing walls, single glazing, or French doors in the specified room, please tick the check boxes to indicate this (all these things can increase heat loss from a room, meaning that a more powerful radiator is required).

With all your values inputted, the calculator will give you a recommended BTU and Watts required for your space. You can then select a radiator which meets these requirements.

Carron’s cast iron radiators are designed to last a lifetime when properly cared for (make sure to follow the instructions on the care guide to keep your radiator performing its best).

Carron’s bare metal finish leaves the manufacturing marks visible, to give an industrial yet trendy aesthetic. These radiators are still finished with a clear, top coat lacquer to protect them from corrosion.

Due to the weight of the cast iron radiators, we recommend using the following number of wall stays:

• Radiators with 3-10 sections: 1 wall stay
• Radiators with 11-19 sections: 2 wall stays
• Radiators with 20+ sections: 3 wall stays

Cast iron radiators provide more heat than steel radiators. Because iron is highly conductive, it radiates a lot more heat than steel, making them highly efficient at retaining and evenly distributing heat over long periods. This is ideal for consistent, long-term warmth in older or larger homes.

Yes. While Carron radiators have traditional aesthetics, they are very heat efficient and are suitable for use with modern central heating systems.

The valves required depends on the model of radiator you choose. If you need help selecting the correct valves, please contact us for more information.

Yes, we recommend using a primer with Mylands paints to ensure the best finish, particularly on bare, unpainted surfaces, stained areas, or rough, aged surfaces. Priming helps improve adhesion of the topcoat, ensure a smooth, even finish, and enhance the durability and longevity of your paint.

Drying times vary slightly depending on the product, finish, and room conditions (temperature, humidity & ventilation). Below is a rough guide, although we recommend checking the specific product page for further information.

Marble Matt Emulsions: touch dry in 1-2 hours, ready to recoat after 3-4 hours

Plant-Based Multi-Surface Paints: touch dry in 2-3 hours, ready to recoat after 3-4 hours

Floor Paints: touch dry in in 2-3 hours, ready to recoat after 3-4 hours. Please allow at least 24 hours before light use.

For best results, always check the instructions on the tin and allow extra drying time in cooler or less ventilated spaces.

Note: although the paint may be touch dry, it takes a lot longer to fully cure, and as it cures the colour will change slightly. Once fully cured, you’ll be left with the final colour. This can take 2-4 weeks.

For most project, we recommend at least 2 coats of Mylands paint to achieve a full depth of colour and a smooth, even finish.

Primed or previously painted surfaces: usually 2 coats are enough.

Bare, porous or stained surfaces: a suitable primer/undercoat plus 2 topcoats may be required.

Darker shades over lighter colour (or vice versa): an extra coat (3 coats plus a primer) may be needed for complete coverage.

Always follow the guidance on the tin for the best results.

Mylands paints are versatile and designed for use with a wide range surfaces including:

Walls & Ceilings: fresh plaster, lime plaster, and lining paper.

Woodwork: doors, skirting boards, furniture, and cabinets.

Metal: radiators, railings, and trim.

Floors: wooden and concrete floors.

Exterior surfaces: brick, render, wood, and metal.

With the correct primer and preparation, Mylands paints can be used on almost any surface to achieve a long-lasting, professional finish.

Yes, Mylands paints can be applied with a spray gun as well as with a brush or roller. Just follow your sprayer’s instructions and, if needed, thin the paint slightly for a smoother finish.

Mylands paints are made using a blend of high-quality natural ingredients and modern technology. Key materials used in their paints include:

Natural Earth Pigments: for rich, deep colour and exceptional coverage.

Plant-Based Resins and Binders: for breathability, durability and flexibility.

Water-Based Formulas: low in VOCs (Volatile Oragnic Compounds), which makes them safer for both your home and the environment.

All Mylands paints are crafted in London by their in-house lab and factory, designed to be both beautiful and environmentally friendly.

Yes, many Mylands paints are formulated to be breathable. This means that they allow moisture and water vapour to pass through, helping walls and surfaces breathe naturally.

Using a breathable paint can help prevent peeling, blistering, and damp issues, which makes it particularly suitable for older buildings and lime plastered walls.

For best results, always check the product details to confirm breathability for your specific surface.

For newly plastered or traditional lime plaster walls, we recommend using breathable, water-based Mylands paints. These allow moisture to pass through and help prevent peeling or blistering. Examples of these finishes include:

Marble Matt Emulsion: ideal for a smooth, breathable finish.

Plant-Based Multi-Surface: specifically designed to work across multiple surface types.

Always ensure the lime plaster is fully cured and dried before painting, This can take several weeks depending on thickness and conditions (temperature, humidity etc.). We also recommend using a Mylands primer to prepare your walls.

Yes, but only once the plaster is fully dried and cured. Fresh plaster contains moisture that must evaporate before painting, which can take several weeks depending on thickness and conditions (temperature, humidity etc.). For best results on new plaster:

Use breathable, water-based Mylands paints, such as Marble Matt or Plant-Based Multi-Surface.

Ensure the surface is clean, dry, and free from dust.

Using a Mylands primer is recommended as fresh plaster can be porous. Painting too early can cause blistering, peeling, or uneven coverage, so patience is key.

Yes, some Mylands paints can be thinned slightly to make application easier, particularly for spraying or rolling. Thinning too much can affect coverage, opacity, and durability, so it’s best to only add a little thinner at a time. Please refer to the specific product information before thinning.

Because most Mylands paints are low-VOC and water-based, they are virtually odour-free compared to traditional solvent-based paints.

Some finishes may have a mild smell during application, but this dissipates quickly with good ventilation. Proper ventilation of the room during application will help the paint dry faster and keep odours minimal.

Marble Matt Emulsion is an ultra-matt, breathable paint infused with real Carrara marble, ideal for interior walls and ceilings in high-traffic areas. It’s scrubbable and mould resistant.

Plant-Based Multi-Surface Dead Matt is a versatile, flat finish made with natural earth pigments and plant-based resins, yet still highly durable. It works on walls, wood, and metal, both internally and externally. Perfect for colour drenching projects and built-in furniture.

Marble Matt Emulsion offers a luxurious interior finish on walls, and Plant-Based Multi-Surface Dead Matt offers a flexible option that can be applied to multiple surfaces.

Mylands Plant-Based Multi-Surface paints are ideal for mixed surfaces. This paint performs as well on cabinets and skirting as it does on walls and ceilings. Available in four sheen types, use together with Plant-Based Primer to ensure the perfect flawless finish.

Mylands Plant-Based Multi-Surface paints are the perfect choice for use on radiators. Suitable for use on metal and walls, you can achieve a seamless look with one paint. Available in four sheen types, use together with Plant-Based Primer to ensure the perfect flawless finish.

You can clean your brushes by simply washing with water and soap/mild detergent.

Yes, can touch up the surface you have painted. Particularly necessary in high traffic areas where scuffs and marks are likely to appear. Mylands paints provide a smooth even finish, so touching up at a later date is easy and will leave no trace.

Note: When you touch up a spot the paint may look different but as it cures it should blend in. However, if the wall was painted some years ago and has been bleached from light and experienced wear and tear then we would recommend repainting the whole wall for a uniform finish.

Mylands water-based formulations can be removed with soap and water. We recommend using a putty knife to scrape off the excess and pat the area with a dry, absorbent cloth to soak up as much of the paint as possible without rubbing. Then, use a clean cloth with soap and water, gently blot into the carpet, trying to avoid any rubbing motion and keep patting the area to remove paint that is being lifted with a dry, clean cloth.

Removing the paint is easier whilst it is still wet, but even dry paint is removable. For dried paint, you may need to use some hot water to help soften it before starting the removal process.

To remove Mylands paint for brick or concrete you can use one of the methods below:

Pressure washing: effective for large areas and exterior surfaces.

Chemical paint strippers: apply a paint remover, then scrub or rinse off.

Wire brushing or sanding: for small patches or stubborn spots, manually scrub or sand the surface.

Once opened, Mylands paint can be used for up to 18 months if kept in the right conditions. We recommend storing tins in a cool, dry place that is not exposed to extreme temperatures.